Live from the banks of the Ganga

The city where the
fire has never gone out.

Varanasi has three names: Kashi, Benares, and Varanasi, and each one carries its own story. People have lived here for almost 3,000 years, making it one of the oldest living cities on Earth. Kings have come and gone, empires have risen and fallen, but the oil lamps on its steps and the fire at its cremation ground have never once gone dark. This page is a small window into that unbroken flame: its temples, its rivers, its saints, and the quiet spiritual path called Aghor that still lives here today.

~3,000years inhabited
88ghats along the river
2,000+temples in the old city
24/7flame at Manikarnika Ghat
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Real time

Watch the ghats and temples right now

Streamed by the temples and Aarti organisers themselves. If a broadcast has ended for the day, the player falls back to that channel's most recent video.

Streams belong to and are hosted by the temples/organisers credited on each card. This page only embeds their public YouTube broadcasts.

Cinematic Journeys

Authentic Documentaries

If you'd rather see Kashi than just read about it, these films are a good place to start. Made by trusted broadcasters and filmed on location, they capture the city's history, its rituals, and its very unusual relationship with death, far better than words alone can.

Riverfront

84 ghats, each with its own story

A "ghat" is simply a flight of stone steps leading down to the river, but in Kashi, every one of these staircases has its own legend, its own daily ritual, and its own reason for existing. Pick a ghat below to read what it's known for today, and the older story tucked behind it.

Sacred geography

The Mandalas of Kashi

Old texts describe Kashi not as a random collection of temples, but as a giant, invisible map (a mandala) with each shrine placed on purpose, like a piece of a puzzle. Below, that map is broken into simple groups: the seats of Shiva, the homes of the Goddess, the fierce guardians who are said to "watch the gates" of the city, and the one shrine dedicated purely to setting restless souls free.

Beneath the surface

Hidden and untouched history

Every guidebook tells you about the ghats and the aartis. Far fewer mention the tunnels, the rebuilt temples, or the quiet ascetic lineage headquartered in this very city, a spiritual tradition most visitors never learn exists at all. Here are a few of those lesser-known stories.

The Aghor lineage of Kashi

The unbroken line: twelve Aghoreshwars

Stories passed down through the lineage

Ashrams: Varanasi and beyond

Read further

Authentic books on the Aghor path

Aghor has always been passed down mostly through the guru-disciple relationship rather than mass publishing, so trustworthy written sources are few. These four are widely regarded, by practitioners and outside scholars alike, as the most genuine places to start.

Links go to the authors' own sites, the ashrams that keep this lineage, or their official publishers, not resellers.

Getting there

Find the ghats

Centered on Dashashwamedh Ghat, the easiest starting point for a first visit.